On Earth Day, a protest was staged in downtown LA outside a Shein distribution center by sustainable fashion activist Lexy Silverstein in collaboration with Remake, a nonprofit and global advocacy organization advocating for fair pay and climate justice. Students donning bathrobes and holding signs that said, “I’d rather go naked than wear Shein,” gathered.
While opposition to fast fashion’s practices isn’t new, the event came at a particularly precarious time for Shein as it awaits its US IPO approval while its profits reportedly doubled amid increased demand. And activists believe it’s time the retailer takes accountability.
“Shein respects the right to peacefully protest in compliance with relevant local laws,” a spokesperson told KABC LA.
Doubling down: The demand for its products also hasn’t spared the Singapore-based retailer from scrutiny and allegations of unsustainable practices, copying emerging designers’ work, and unfair labor practices.
In fact, the brand’s favorability among Gen Z (Shein’s primary target demographic) fell ~20 percentage points last year, while net purchasing consideration dropped 10 points.
If anything, the recent protests only seem to put a bigger spotlight on the issues and particularly on Shein. Still, per Silverstein, Shein isn’t necessarily her only target.
“I’m not just picking on Shein for the fun of it,” she told Retail Brew. “They’re the biggest fish in the fast fashion pond, so if we can make a dent in their armor, maybe the rest of the industry will start to take notice.”
She additionally said that she’s “not stopping” with the recent demonstrations, and she plans more petitions, more “noise” and of course, more protests while hoping to provide further clarity on her demands.
“[Shopping at Shein] is not just about scoring a cheap deal; it’s about the hidden costs that come with it,” she said. “We’re talking potential health hazards, environmental havoc, and the exploitation of garment workers—all neatly bundled up in every Shein purchase…Plus, there's a good chance those trendy pieces will end up in a landfill, joining the whopping 85% of textiles in the US that could stick around for centuries.”
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Who’s to blame? While activists discuss the environmental cost of fast fashion and fair pay, brands like Shein continue to thrive because of demand, especially among young consumers. As of January 2024, shoppers aged 25–34 made up 30% of Shein’s online customers, while 18–24 year olds accounted for nearly 18%, according to a recent Oberlo analysis.
“We’ve been trained as consumers to maximize value through constant sales like Black Friday,” Harmony Richards, co-community organizer at Remake, told Retail Brew. “People see the low price tag as a way to keep up with trends, which are cycling even faster these days with social media. The pressure to stay relevant may unfortunately override someone’s eco-conscious concerns.”
It does not mean consumers aren’t impacted by growing protests or accusations, as the aforementioned drop in Gen Z consumer interest in Shein denotes amid efforts to block Shein’s IPO in the US.
Richards foresees a long-term shift in consumer perception and opposition to fast fashion through increased awareness and education along with changes in legislation.
“Proper legislation in the United States like the Fabric Act, would help reshore manufacturing in the US and bring the importance of garment worker rights more into the spotlight,” she said. “When things are happening in your own backyard, people tend to care more.”
In Europe, policies requiring retailers to pay for textile recycling are already in place or in the making. France, for instance, has proposed laws that could potentially fine brands like Shein and ban advertising.
Both Richards and Silverstein ultimate goal is to see regulations like these in the US, potentially accomplishing some sense of commitment to sustainability.
“We’re not buying the greenwashing anymore,” Silverstein said. “Shein needs to step up and take a hard look at its supply chain, ensuring that every factory meets safety standards and workers get fair treatment. We’re not just shouting into the void here.”
Update 5/7/24: This story has been updated since its original posting.