The quest for a solution to restaurant-delivery french fries going limp before they reach their destination has become an industry obsession, as Retail Brew reported recently. French fry producers are making fries that come out of deep fryers ever more crispy, while packaging companies are offering solutions including containers with air vents that allow steam to escape.
Driving this is the supposition that a soggy french fry has lost its mojo and defies all sense, purpose, and meaning.
Bon Appétit is having none of it.
“Soggy fries are good, actually,” declared a recent headline.
“I think the anti-sog smear campaign has gone too long, and I’m here to be a voice for the voiceless,” wrote Bon Appétit culture editor Karen Yuan. “Soggy fries are, in fact, delicious.”
SAVRpak, a company founded by literal rocket scientist Bill Birgen, whose crispy-fry solution involves adhesive pads that attach to the inside lid of a delivery box to absorb steam, responded on Twitter.
“We disagree, actually,” @SAVRpak tweeted after Bon Appétit posted the article.
“What has happened to your magazine,” added @_rapscallion17. “I’m not renewing my subscription.”
Yuan, meanwhile, absorbed it all calmly, much like an order of fries in a steamroom-like to-go box, and went on NPR to discuss the article and backlash.
“Soggy fries are so underrated,” Yuan told host Ayesha Rascoe. “I will die on this soggy, soggy hill.”
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